Unfortunately, it is still a common problem in the lash lift industry and one that I still see too often in the salon: a failed lash lift.
In many cases, you can immediately recognize a failed lift. The signs are:
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Frizzy eyelashes – absolutely not what you want to see
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Dull appearance – the eyelashes have lost their shine
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Over-curling – eyelashes curl so strongly that the tips touch and irritate the eyelid
These are clear alarm signals, results that we really shouldn't be seeing anymore with current knowledge and products.
What causes a failed lash lift?
There isn't one single cause. As I've mentioned in previous blogs: a lash lift is like a puzzle, all the pieces must fit. If one piece is missing, the result can be disappointing.
The most common causes are:
1. Overprocessing (too long processing time)
When a stylist doesn't properly analyze the eyelashes and doesn't perform a Lash Check, the processing time becomes a guess.
Especially with TGA-based products, overprocessing can quickly occur, and the eyelashes become "overtreated." The result: over-curled, dry, frizzy, and damaged eyelashes.
2. Lotion on the eyelash tips
TGA-based lotions should never be applied to the tips of the eyelashes. Unlike Cysteamine products, TGA on the tips can cause splitting and damage to the eyelashes.
3. Incorrect shield choice / placement of lotions
Using an incorrect shield (e.g., too small) or applying the lotion too far past the apex can lead to over-curling.
This is particularly common with shields that curve back towards the eyelid, such as round, teardrop, or flat shields.
Without a proper analysis of the natural growth direction of the eyelashes and correct placement of the lotions, an incorrect result can easily occur.
In all these cases, we are talking about a failed lash lift.
Unfortunately, many lash lift training courses do not teach how to prevent this, let alone how to correct it. While I believe every lash stylist should know how to perform a basic relaxing treatment to repair overprocessed eyelashes.
How do you fix it?
Always start with an analysis: is there only over-curling, or are the eyelashes also damaged?
To correct a lash lift, always use a Cysteamine-based product. With Elleebana, this means you don't work with One Shot (TGA), but with the Pro Fusion line (Cysteamine).
Apply step 1 by carefully brushing the lotion from root to tip through the lashes, with closed eyes and over an eye pad or reverse shield, for approximately 1 minute.
Observe how the lashes react and adjust the time as needed. Remove the lotion as soon as the lashes are relaxed and dry them well.
Then apply step 2 in the same way, for a maximum of 1 minute, again on a pad or reverse shield.
Aftercare after the treatment
After a relaxing treatment, intensive care is essential. For example, use Elleebana ReGen and let it work for 5-10 minutes, depending on the condition of the eyelashes.
Always provide your client with a good aftercare product, so that the eyelashes can continue to recover at home.
Recommended products:
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Elleeplex by Elleebana
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Hyaluronic Boost Serum
Conclusion
Preventing damage is important, but knowing how to repair it is just as essential.
This ensures that your client always leaves the salon with eyelashes that are not only beautiful but also remain healthy.
Invest in quality products and the right knowledge, so you can treat every client optimally.
With Love,
Romana
Beauty & Wellness